“While we know how to work they know how to live”

This is a well worn phrase comparing Northern Italy to the south. I’ve also heard variations on the following: Garibaldi did Italy a great disservice. If he hadn’t invaded Sicily and Naples we in the north would have the richest and most civilized state of Europe. It’s all a matter of perspective.

We’re going to Rome, a former home next month, and I’m sure we’ll pay homage to Garibaldi and his statue on the top of the Gianicolo. My guy considers Garibaldi a hero, as do many, on more than one continent. He was a one off.

Yesterday I was reminded of the difference. I was talking to a couple from Naples, they were staying in our building, they’re older, the husband is a Nataio – not just a Notary. A complicated role here in Italy, they don’t just certify they have a legal background, rigorous study, multiple exams passed, etc. If one becomes a Nataio, they have gravitas.

For instance, when you buy a home you listen to a Nataio talk for a very long time about every single detail regarding your new home. Like I said, they have gravitas. I’ve seen it in action. One of ours, in Lake Como, wore a silk suit and commanded attention the entire time he spoke; and he spoke for a very, very long time.

However, the couple from above, this Notaio and his wife are from Naples. They’re visiting family here and I was reminded how warm the southerners are, especially the Neapolitans; you can feel the size of their heart, their warm sun. They are so affectionate and it’s endearing.

Northern Italy and Southern Italy, really, are two separate countries. It’s a cliche, but each region carries it’s own state of mind. That’s why I’m writing a book about one specific region called Piemonte; the secret that needs to be told.

But I’m glad I spent so much time down south. When we lived in Rome I used to drive or train it down to Positano fairly often. Even before we moved to Europe permanently – 25 yrs ago, I took a two week cooking course there, overlooking the Med; it was bliss. My mother was still alive, we went together, our travel itinerary was ideal, the environs surreal, from south to north we went.

I often hear Positano is too touristy, too expensive now, so happy I caught it when I could.

There is a reason Italians don’t practice nationalism the way other countries do; they’re very much a product of the town in which they live; it’s called campanilismo, their sense of pride and I’m writing all about it in my next book, “The Personal Legends of Piemonte”.


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