First time visit to the museum and it was extaordinary. If Venice is on your list I would highly recommend – her place was easy to find, even for me. Surreal and magical on every level – Paul Klee, Picasso, Kandinsky, Dali and all the rest. And my goodness, what a home, right there onContinue reading “Peggy Guggenheim; what a pad and what treasures she had”
Last year I drove, this year I took a train; Venice is located just 2 hrs from Riva del Garda. I stay overnite so it goes by quickly but worth every hour I walk. I am at my leisure and have no destination, taking this time seriously because every minute feels especially precious. And becauseContinue reading “Because it’s Venice, she makes that last gasp hurt”
January 9th, 2007 Hyde Park Hotel, London. Colette, Godot, Audrey and Marilyn
Now that we live on Lake Garda, just 2 hours west of Venice, it makes sense to visit my prior life as a live-aboard on Madi in Lignano Sabbiadoro. It was a critical part of the odyssey. Not only did I repair Madi’s brightwork and prepare her for market, but I repaired myself. The yearContinue reading “The Odyssey: In Venice where time felt pure and present”
At night from our bed I can see the lights of Chiesa Santa Barbara. In the distance they appear tiny but bright, always there, attached high up on the side of the mountain. It’s just about the only light any of us can see from down here on the lake; except for the silvery moon.Continue reading “The View: Chiesa Santa Barbara overlooking Lake Garda”
Dubious at first but if Italians have taught me anything, and they’ve taught me allot – be bold with color! It really does make everything pop out. New like paint as they say…and what a great way to start out the New Year!
They become a force for love….
In the middle of my odyssey, I landed in Geneva, a deeply serious place. A truly participatory democracy where each person in every single one of Switzerland’s 26 Cantons takes part; there really is no other place quite like it. In Rome, time stood still. In Paris, it flew right by. In Malta time feltContinue reading “The Odyssey: Moving to Geneva when time felt serious”
View from our flat in 2009. It was Christmas. And we had so many seasons. We’ll always have Paris.
Italy responds well in a crisis, and they’ve also become “a model for the world” as Fauci recently said.
Feeling relieved after getting my Pfizer booster shot today. Italy has made it so easy, so seamless. I remain impressed. They were hit first and hardest in the west and yet, they’ve done 3 things; mask, distance and successfully vax the majority of the population. Italy truly is a country with a strong sense ofContinue reading “Italy responds well in a crisis, and they’ve also become “a model for the world” as Fauci recently said.”
Excerpt from my book, “A European Odyssey; How a boxer’s daughter found grace”. We’d already cruised to Sicily so we opted to sail straight through to Crotone, a port city in Calabria. We were back on the land where coffee tastes like a milkshake and pasta is al dente. We arrived at the heel ofContinue reading “The Odyssey: Sailing to Lignano Sabbiadoro”
Some moves were romantic, others, pragmatic. Rome never asked for my love because there was no need and Paris was a dream come true. Those were serious love affairs. But when we sailed to Malta and met, after one long look, we both knew this relationship was doomed. To ride on such a high IContinue reading “The Odyssey: From the moment I met Malta we both knew it wasn’t going to work out”
Moving from Rome to Paris allowed me to compare the cultural cousins. Both tribes are chatty and both have been talking for an awfully long time. Each talk about food at lunch and dinner and most of the time in between. When on a walk with Colette and Godot in Rome the Italian women wouldContinue reading “The Odyssey: From Rome to Paris where pleasure’s everywhere and time flies right by”
…to her strange sense of time. Her alchemy is perfect, with her classical beauty, ancient history and fantastic food but time feels different. Which is natural, I suppose, in the eternal city. Whether you’re going to spend 3 days or spend 3 years in Rome like we did, time will feel as if it’s stopped.Continue reading “The Odyssey: There’s no place like Rome”
When we move house it feels like a new beginning yet it’s often an exercise in memory, nostalgia; about the past. Each key received had teased me it could solve a mystery, and unlock the secrets of cities like Paris, Amsterdam, Bucharest or Prague yet Rome kept her secrets safely tucked inside. Each move demandingContinue reading “Moving house is about new beginnings and letting go”
The Germans love Lake Garda because when they drive down for holiday, it’s the first place where they see a palm tree, and they love Italy, as we all do. By late October/early November their accent evaporates, and it’s a bit of a relief, I think, the tourists season is over – but in theirContinue reading “How the Germans found Lake Garda”
Two hours west of Venice and about an hour northwest of Verona. Italy’s full of mountains, and we’re surrounded by dramatic ones. Technically the Dolomites are further noth, but I like to pretend they’re right here. This makes Italy full of pretty drives….even where it’s flat, in the Po Valley, stretching from Torino to theContinue reading “We are here”
She will make you want to cry, and then she will turn on a dime, and then suddenly/improvisemente! – – all will be fine. She is singular in this way and I am not alone thinking this is how Italy works.
I’m in Riva, in the province of Trentino, on Lake Garda. Riva used to belong to the Republic of Venice, and far more importantly – in this case – Riva used to belong to the Austro-Hungarian empire Seriously, they make great cake
Today’s my father’s birthday and I remember this picture, part of a collage I made, long ago, full of memories. And I do recall how dementia took hold, and long distance did not help. And then he died when we were living in Prague. He was no closet bohemian, like Muv, my mother, but heContinue reading “All my father ever wanted was to be liked – and he was.”
Living a nomadic lifestyle made me feel each city carried its own sense of time. So this is how I wrote about them in my first book, A European Odyssey; How a boxer’s daughter found grace. Prague, in particular, allowed time to open up. When I caught women on camera they were like perfectly cutContinue reading “Catching women on camera, Bohemia fuels the imagination”
Egon Schiele is known for his intensity and raw sexuality, yet his colors always inspire now – in the middle of – at the height – of fall.
“Once Vienna’s least-favorite son, Schiele has become the embodiment of the cultural, political, and sexual convulsions that ripped Europe apart in the opening decades of the 20th century — flash points that continue to ignite through the present day.” – Thomas Miccelli, 2017.
It’s an awfully pretty drive around the lake, the largest in Italy, and now we’re but two hours from Venice and not so far away from Vienna.
The road that takes us to our home in Loazzolo, in the province of Asti, in the magical region of Piemonte, Italia.
…colors were prettier than the castle
Here’s a little vid of my last visit to the monumental cemetery of Staglieno: an open-air museum, located in Genoa. When Mark Twain visited long ago, he said “Our last sight was the cemetery and we shall continue to remember it after we shall have forgotten the palaces.” It’s an extraordinary cemetery, a lovely placeContinue reading “All Saints’ Day; a nice, quiet day in Italy, full of contemplation and meditation”
I went to Venice last year and hope to be back next month; if I’m lucky. It was lovely and it felt like I was the only one there; the entire scene was hallowed out and therefore uniquely serene. Sergei Digahilev’s grave is a destination and located in the Orthodox section, near the composer IgorContinue reading “Death in Venice; Isola di San Michele”
Apparently microdosing is all the rage in LA and Silicon Valley. At work or play, people are indulging in tiny doses of shrooms and kosher LSD. They say it helps with creativity and focus. They even like to play with their kids now. After dipping into that scene and stepping out quickly so many decadesContinue reading “Driving through Transylvania is my kind of microdosing”
…but I always preferred Montparnasse. Close to the street yet easy to get lost immediately in a maze, a treasure hunt full of artists and poets. Like Samuel Beckett on this last visit in 2009. Paris has more than a dozen cemeteries but Pere, Montparnasse and Montmare are perhaps most well known. Montmare has EdwardContinue reading “Père Lachaise is probably the most prestigious and visited necroplis in Paris…”
As the cemetery series continues, we move west to one of the oldest, St. Peters, where the nuns hid the von Trapp family from the Nazis
Atmospheric and unique and certainly one of the oldest cemeteries in the world. Conveniently located not too far away from the oldest restaurant in the world – St. Peters Keller – where you can find the finest Wiener Schnitzel; safe to say they’ve had time to improve on this wonderful dish. St. Peter’s Monastery andContinue reading “As the cemetery series continues, we move west to one of the oldest, St. Peters, where the nuns hid the von Trapp family from the Nazis”
As the calendar moves closer to All Souls’ Day and All Saints’ Day, when we mourn the dead and celebrate life; let’s visit some cemeteries
This atmospheric cemetery in Vienna is called the Friedhof Hietzing, it’s where Gustav Klimt is buried. Klimt is most famously known for “The Kiss” and if you ever find yourself waiting in line, say at the Belvedere or the Leopold Museum in Vienna, you will hear the Viennese whisper “Klimt and Schiele” with the sameContinue reading “As the calendar moves closer to All Souls’ Day and All Saints’ Day, when we mourn the dead and celebrate life; let’s visit some cemeteries”
Perhaps I’m open to the idea because I hear their accents overlapping here on Lake Garda throughout the summer. Germans are everywhere becuase it only takes them 4 or 5 hours to drive down from Munich. The moment they see their first palm tree, they decide this place is ideal for vacations. Germans love Italy,Continue reading “Italian and German attitudes overlap when it comes to Grandma”